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THE CHRONICLES OF THE MATTERHORN

Owing to its importance, the North Face is listed separately in this account.
(1m = 3,28 ft.)

1857 1st attempt on the ascent by J.A. Carrel, J.J. Carrel and Aimé Gorret on the Lion Ridge up to 12,211 ft. (3723 m)
2nd attempt by V. Carrel and G. Maquignaz on the Lion Ridge up to 11,316 ft. (3450 m)
18583rd attempt by J.A. Carrel and J.J. Carrel on the Lion Ridge up to 12,464 ft. (3800 m)
18604th attempt by the brothers A., C. and S. Parker on the Hörnli Ridge up to 11,808 ft. (3600m)
5th attempt by J. Tyndall, J.J. Bennen, E.V. Hawkins and J.J. Carrel on the Lion Ridge up to 12,988 ft (3960 m)
18616th attempt by the brothers Parker on the Hörnli Ridge up to 12,136 ft. (3700 m)
7th attempt by J.A. Carrel and J.J. Carrel on the Lion Ridge up to 13,224 ft. (4032 m)
8th attempt by E. Whymper with a guide from the Berne se Oberland on the Lion Ridge up to 12,644 ft (3855 m)
1862 9th attempt (in January) by T. S. Kennedy with the guides P. Perren and P. Taugwalder senior on the Hörnli Ridge up to 11,152 ft. (3400 m)
10th attempt by E. Whymper, R. Macdonald, L. Meynet with J. Zumtaugwald and J. Kronig on the Lion Ridge up to 11,994 ft. (3657 m)
11th attempt by E. Whymper, R. Macdonald, J.A. Carrel and Pession on the Lion Ridge up to 12,988 ft. (3960 m)
12th attempt by E. Whymper on his own on the Lion Ridge up to 13,395 ft. (4084 m). Whymper falls, escapes with slight injuries
13th attempt by E. Whymper, J.A. Carrel, C. Carrel and L. Meynet on the Lion Ridge up to 13,120 ft. (4000 m)
14th attempt by E. Whymper and L. Meynet on the Lion Ridge up to 13,454 ft. (4102 m)
15th attempt by J. Tyndall with the 4 guides J.J. Bennen, A. Walter, J.A. Carrel and C. Carrel on the Lion Ridge up to 13,966 ft. (4258 m) (Pic Tyndall)
186316th attempt by E. Whymper, J.A. Carrel, C. Carrel and L. Meynet on the Lion Ridge up to 13,274 ft. (4047 m)
186517th attempt by E. Whymper, M. Croz, C. Almer, F. Biner and L. Meynet in the Furggen Couloir up to 11,197 ft. (3414 m)
18th attempt by J.A. Carrel, C. Carrel, C.E. Gorret and J. Maquignaz on the Lion Ridge
First ascent on 14th July by the guides from Zermatt, Peter Taugwalder senior and junior, the guide from Chamonix Michel Croz and the Englishmen, E. Whymper, C. Hudson, D. Hadow and Lord Douglas via the Hörnli Ridge. During the descent the last three Englishmen and M. Croz lose their lives.
On 17th July the summit is reached for the first time via the Lion Ridge by J.A. Carrel and J.B. Bich
1867The first woman is on the mountain: Félicité Carrel reaches the altitude of 14,366 ft (4380 m) on the Lion Ridge (Col Félicité)
1868 For the first time the mountain is climbed from one side and descended on the other by J. Tyndall and D. Maquignaz (Lion Ridge-Hörnli Ridge)
1871 On 22nd July the Englishwoman Lucy Walker is the first woman to set foot on the summit
1879The Zmutt Ridge is scaled for the first time by A. F. Mummery, A. Burgener, J. Petrus and A. Gentinetta. For the first time W. Penhall, F. Imseng and L. Zurbriggen climb a good part of the West Face via the Penhall Couloir
1911The last ridge, the Furggen Ridge is ascended by J.J. Carrel, J. Gaspard and M. Piacenza by avoiding the overhangs
1929F. Herrmann is the first soloclimber to scale the major part of the West Face
1931First scaling of the South Face by L. Carrel, M. Bich and E. Benedetti
1932Pioneering ascent of the East Face by L. Carrel, L. Carrel, E. Benedetti, M. Bich, A. Gaspard and G. Mazzotti
1933 A. Crétier, T. Gaspard and B. Olietti conquer the De-Amicis-Ridge. During the descent they are killed
1941First complete climbing of the whole Furggen Rid ge by L. Carrel, A. Perino and G. Chiara
1942 First ascent of the Deffeyes-Carrel-Ridge in the South Face by L. Carrel and A. Deffeyes
1953Opening of the Muzio-Carrel-Route by I. Muzio, L. Carrel and L. Maquignaz in the South Face
1962First complete scaling of the West Face by G. Ottin and R. Daguin
1965The South South-East Face (to the Pic Muzio) is scaled for the first time by G. Lanfranconi and A. Zucchi
1969Pioneering ascent of the Zmuttnose by L. Cerruti and A. Gogna
1970G. Machetto, G. Calcagno, L. Cerruti and C. Di Pietro climb the south-east pillar to the Pic Muzio for the first time
1981 The direct Zmuttnose is climbed for the first time by M. Piola and P.A. Steiner
1982First solo climb via the Gogna-Route on the Zmutt nose by A. Georges
1983 R. Casarotto and G. Grassi establish a new route in the South Face (between the De-Amicis-Ridge and the Deffeyes-Carrel-Ridge)
A new route is laid over the South Face to the Pic Muzio by M. Barmasse and V. De Tuoni
The «Direttissima» of the South Face is achieved for the first time by V. De Tuoni, W. Cazzanelli and M. Barmasse
2000Opening of the Per Nio-Route (for Nio) on the South Face by H. Barmasse and P. Poletto
2002First climb via the Padre Pio-Route in the SSE-Face to the Pic Muzio by P. Gabarrou and C. Ravaschietto
2007 First solo ascent via the “Direttissima-Route” on the South Face by H. Barmasse
2011 New route to Pic Muzio by H. Barmasse (Barmasse-Route)
The Ascents in Winter
All successful summit ascents between 21st December and 21st Ma rch count as winter ascents! In earlier days, ascents made at the end of March or in April were also included.
1882 V. Sella, Jean-Antoine, Louis and Baptiste Carrel climb the Lion Ridge for the first time in winter
19111st winter ascent of the Hörnli Ridge by J. Lochm atter, J. Pollinger and C. F. Meade
19481st winter/spring ascent of the Zmutt Ridge by E. Petrig and H. Masson
1st winter/spring ascent of the upper part of the Furggen Ridge by J. Fuchs and R. Monney
19491st winter/spring ascent of the greater part of the West Face by J. Fuchs and R. Monney
1953W. Bonatti and R. Bignami do the first entire climb of the Furggen Ridge in winter
1964 For the first time the De-Amicis-Ridge is scaled in winter by L. Ratto and G. Ottin
1971First winter climb of the South Face by A. and O. Squinobal as well as E. Bich and I. Mennabreaz (1 hour later)
19741st ascent in winter of the Zmuttnose by E. Oberson and T. Gross
1975R. Arnold, G. Bumann and C. Pralonge succeed in the first ascent of the East Face in winter
1978R. Albertini, M. Barmasse, L. Pession, A. Tamone, I. Mennabreaz, as well as the brothers A. and O. Squinobal carry out the 1st winter ascent of the West Face. During the climb down Albertini falls and is killed
1982D. Anker and T. Wüschner master the Piola-Steiner-Route of the Zmuttnose in winter for the first time
1983 Pioneering ascent in winter of the Deffeyes-Carrel-Ridge by Leo Pession, G. Gorret, M. Barmasse and Luigi Pession
1984The Casarotto-Grassi-Route is climbed in winter by M. Barmasse, W. Cazzanelli and A. Tamone for the first time
1987M. Barmasse, W. Cazzanelli and N. Corradi scale the Pic Muzio via the Machetto-Route for the first time in winter
1989 The Piacenza-Route of the Furggen Ridge is climbed for the first time in winter by G. Carrozza, A. Perron and A. Tamone
2004 First winter ascent of the Padre Pio-Route by H. Barmasse and M. Farina on the South Face
2010S. Anthamatten and M. Lerjen climbed for the first time the «Direttissima» on the South Face in winter
2010S. Anthamatten and M. Lerjen climbed for the first time the «Direttissima» on the South Face in winter
The North Face
1923 1st attempt on the Norh Face by A. Horeschowsky and F. Piekielko
1928 2nd attempt on the North Face by V. Imboden and K. Mooser
1930 3rd attempt on the North Face by E.R. Blanchet with the guides J. Lerjen and K. Mooser
1931 For the first time the notorious North Face is scaled on 31.7./1.8. by the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid
1935 For the first time the face is scaled without a bivouac by H. Steuri and A. Bauer
1959 First solo ascent of the face by D. Marchart
1962 1st winter ascent up to the shoulder by A. Huber, F. Huber and H. Sedlmayr
1st entire winter scaling by H. von Allmen and P. Etter
1963 1st ascent by a woman; by N. Fajdiga with A. Mahkota
1965 In a solo ascent in winter W. Bonatti finds a new route in the west part of the face
Y. Vaucher is the first woman to climb the whole face
1972Opening of the Japanese route on the right hand side of the face by M. Furukawa, M. Miyagawa and Y. Okitsu
Opening of the Czechoslovakian Route (Direttissima) by Z. Drlik, L. Horka, B. Kadlcik and V. Prokes
1978 1st winter ascent of the North Face by a woman; by A. Shigi with M. Shigi
1st women’s roped party in winter on the North Face: A. Czerwinska, I. Kesa, K. Palmowska and W. Rutkiewicz
1994 C. Destiville is the first woman to climb the North Face of the Matterhorn alone in winter
2008Opening of the Anthamatten-Route by the brothers S. and S. Anthamatten